Portugal (coastal)
The Portuguese counterpart to bacalhau à lagareiro — whole tentacles of Atlantic octopus (polvo), first tenderised by boiling, then roasted in a generous bath of olive oil, garlic, and bay leaf in a cast iron or earthenware vessel at high heat until the skin blisters and the tips of the tentacles begin to caramelise. The lagareiro technique — drowning the ingredient in olive oil during roasting — transforms the boiled octopus into something simultaneously crisp at the extremities and silky at the thicker sections. Portugal is Europe's largest consumer of octopus per capita, and the tentacles cooked in olive oil with roasted potatoes is one of the most photographed Portuguese restaurant dishes.
The octopus must be tenderised first — either by boiling in plain water for 45-60 minutes (until a knife passes through without resistance), or by freezing (freezing breaks down the tough muscle fibres and achieves a similar effect to beating). Drain thoroughly. Place in a roasting pan, cover generously with olive oil, add smashed garlic and bay. Roast at 220°C for 20-25 minutes until the tentacle tips crisp. Serve in the cooking oil.
The 'beating the octopus' technique (batendo o polvo against a hard surface) was the traditional tenderisation method before freezing was understood to achieve the same result. Freeze for 48 hours and the octopus is as tender as any beaten specimen. The cooking oil from polvo à lagareiro — infused with octopus juices, garlic, and bay — is magnificent. Use it for roasting potatoes in the same dish (they will take on all the octopus character) or for dressing a simple salad. Pair with white Dão or Alvarinho.
Not pre-cooking the octopus — it will be rubbery regardless of olive oil quantity. Using too little oil — the lagareiro technique depends on the oil bath. Overcooking — the tentacle tips should be just beginning to caramelise, not fully dried.
My Portugal by George Mendes