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Vins de Bourgogne

Bourgogne

‹ The Beverage Tradition

I

Origin

The wines of Burgundy come from the vineyards that run south from Chablis and the Côte d'Or through the Côte Chalonnaise and the Mâconnais, a region where the vine has long been tied to the monasteries and to the small family holdings that succeeded them. Burgundy is a land of parcels and of named sites, and the wine is understood first by its place of origin, then by its grower. Red wine is made from the Pinot Noir and white wine chiefly from the Chardonnay, and this pairing of one grape to one colour defines the Burgundian tradition.

II

Description

Burgundy produces red wine from Pinot Noir (Vitis vinifera) and white wine chiefly from Chardonnay, with Aligoté as a lesser white grape and Gamay important in the south of the region. The reds are generally light in colour, fine in tannin and marked by red fruit, while the whites range from the taut, mineral wines of Chablis to the fuller, richer wines of the Côte de Beaune. The appellations are arranged in ascending order of precision: regional wines such as Bourgogne AOC, then village wines, then Premier Cru sites, then Grand Cru sites. The wine is read through this ladder of origin more than through the name of a grape.

III

The Thread

—Both Barolo and the great red Burgundies are single-variety wines, Nebbiolo in one case and Pinot Noir in the other, defined by the vineyard site and classified by it. Barolo is firmer in tannin and longer in its ageing, whereas Burgundy is lighter in body and more aromatic in youth. Italian · (Piedmont)
—Both regions express one noble grape through a mosaic of named sites, so that the wine is understood by its parcel before its producer. The Rheingau relies on acidity and residual sugar to carry the wine, while Burgundy's whites rely on Chardonnay's texture and the influence of the cellar. German · (Rheingau)
—Both give a legal meaning to the time a wine spends in barrel and bottle before release, so that the label tells the buyer something about maturity. Rioja defines these categories chiefly by ageing, whereas Burgundy defines its hierarchy chiefly by the vineyard of origin. Spanish · (La · Rioja)
IV

Flavour Context

Red Burgundy is drunk with roast poultry, game birds, veal, and dishes such as coq au vin and bœuf bourguignon, where its acidity and modest tannin cut through the richness without overwhelming the sauce. White Burgundy suits poached and roast fish, shellfish, and chicken in cream, because its acidity cleanses the palate and its weight matches butter and cream. The Burgundian table also uses the regional cheeses, such as Époisses, with the wines, the structure of the wine answering the fat and salt of the cheese.

Pillars V — VII
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