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French · VI The Beverage Tradition

Vins de la vallée du Rhône

Vallée du Rhône

‹ The Beverage Tradition

I

Origin

The vineyards of the Rhône follow the river from Vienne in the north to the approaches of Avignon in the south, and they divide into two distinct countries. The northern vineyards, steep and terraced on granite, give single-variety wines, while the south, broader and stonier, blends several varieties. The tradition belongs to the growers and cooperatives of the valley, and its best-known appellations include Côte-Rôtie, Condrieu, Hermitage, Crozes-Hermitage, Saint-Joseph, Cornas, Châteauneuf-du-Pape, Gigondas and Tavel.

II

Description

In the north the red wines are made from Syrah (Vitis vinifera), dark, peppery and firm in tannin; Côte-Rôtie may admit a small share of the white Viognier. Condrieu and Château-Grillet are pressed from Viognier alone, and the white wines of Hermitage and Saint-Joseph from Marsanne and Roussanne. In the south Grenache noir leads the blends, with Syrah, Mourvèdre and Cinsault beside it, and Châteauneuf-du-Pape permits a long list of varieties. Tavel is a dry rosé of the south, and the fortified sweet wines of Rasteau and Beaumes-de-Venise belong to the same valley.

III

The Thread

—Both are blended or varietal red wines of a river valley, matured in oak before release and built to accompany roast and grilled meats. Rioja rests on Tempranillo with long American oak ageing, whereas the Rhône reds draw their character from Syrah or Grenache and from the heat of granite and stone. Spanish
—Both are structured, tannic reds from steep terraced vineyards, made from a single dominant variety in their finest northern or hillside expressions. Barolo is Nebbiolo, pale, acidic and austere, whereas northern Rhône Syrah is darker, spicier and rounder in fruit. Italian
—Both are warm-climate reds from Syrah and Grenache, whose ripeness and alcohol suit braised and grilled red meat. The Barossa wines are usually fuller and more openly fruited, while the Rhône expressions keep a drier, more savoury and herbal edge. Australian
IV

Flavour Context

The northern reds suit roast lamb, game, grilled beef and dishes seasoned with pepper and thyme, because their firm tannin is softened by fat and their peppery notes echo the seasoning. The southern blends, rounder and warmer, stand beside daubes, stews of Provençal character and dishes with garlic, olive oil and herbs. Condrieu, with its apricot perfume and low acidity, is served with poultry in cream, river fish and delicately spiced dishes, while Tavel suits cold meats, charcuterie and the cooking of the south.

Pillars V — VII
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