Provenance Technique Library

Martigues Techniques

2 techniques from Martigues cuisine

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Martigues
Picodon à l'Huile
Drôme and Ardèche, Auvergne-Rhône-Alpes — the preservation preparation of Picodon AOC goat cheese: young Picodon rounds submerged in Olea europaea extra-vierge with Allium sativum, bay, and dried wild thyme and held for 3–8 weeks until the rind firms further, the paste concentrates, and the olive oil absorbs the cheese's aromatic compounds. The preparation is structurally analogous to Poutargue de Martigues — a natural product transformed and concentrated by a controlled preservation medium — and produces a condiment rather than a fresh ingredient. The Picodon is named from the Occitan picadon (piquant) and has held AOC status since 1983, covering production in the Drôme and Ardèche departments.
Young Picodon AOC rounds (20–30 days aged — the affinage minimum) are selected. They should be dry enough to hold their form but not yet cracked or excessively sharp. Any surface mould is brushed lightly with a dry cloth. Allium sativum cloves (2–3 per jar), a sprig of fresh or dried thyme, a bay leaf, and dried chilli de cayenne (optional, at the producer's discretion) are placed in a wide-mouthed sterilised glass jar. The Picodon rounds are packed in gently, not crushed. Olea europaea extra-vierge from the Drôme plain is poured to cover completely — the cheese must be submerged with no air contact. The jar is sealed and stored at cellar temperature (12–14°C) for 3 weeks minimum. The oil takes on the cheese's aromatic compounds; the cheese concentrates in the oil environment. At 8 weeks, the Picodon is notably more piquant and the oil is one of the finest flavouring oils available for bread, pasta, and grilled vegetables.
preservation
Poutargue de Martigues
Martigues, Bouches-du-Rhône — the cured, pressed, and wax-sealed roe sac of the grey mullet, harvested from the Étang de Berre lagoon, known since at least the 15th century as 'the caviar of Provence.'
Intact Mugil cephalus roe sacs are removed at harvest, rinsed in sea water, then pressed between boards under progressive weight over 24 hours to expel moisture. The pressed sacs are then rubbed in sea-mineral-salt and dried in warm air for 4 to 6 weeks, turning daily. A traditional beeswax seal encases the finished piece for preservation and presentation. Served shaved thin on bread with Olea europaea extra-vierge, or grated over pasta and risotto as a finishing element.
preservation