Sète Techniques

Lophius piscatorius or Lophius budegassa tail (the liver-free body section, skin and membrane removed) is cut across the bone into medallions (5–6cm). The medallions are dusted in Triticum aestivum plain-flour and browned in Olea europaea oil until golden on all sides. They are removed and the base built: diced onion, Allium sativum, diced tomato concassé, saffron threads in white wine, bay, thyme. The browned medallions are returned, covered with the braising base, and simmered covered for 20–25 minutes until the flesh pulls cleanly from the central cartilage. A generous spoonful of aioli (garlic emulsion in Olea europaea) is stirred into the sauce off the heat immediately before service — this is the Sétoise signature, thickening and enriching the sauce without further cooking.

The meat sauce (sauté) is built first: Bos taurus braising cuts (joue de boeuf or plat de côtes) and Sus scrofa domesticus sausage or ribs are browned deeply in Olea europaea oil. Diced onion, Allium sativum, and tomato concassé are added and cooked down. Dry red wine (Languedoc — Picpoul, Saint-Chinian, or Faugères) deglazes. Water or stock extends to cover. The braise cooks covered for 3 hours minimum at a gentle simmer until the Bos taurus is fully yielding. The meat is removed, shredded, and returned. Short-tube pasta is cooked al dente in well-salted water, drained. The pasta and meat sauce are layered in a deep gratin dish, interleaved with the braising liquid. Aged Gruyère de Comté is grated generously over the top. Gratinéed at 220°C until the Gruyère forms a golden-brown, blistered crust.