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Coniglio in Porchetta — Rabbit Stuffed with Wild Fennel and Herbs
Marche — the wild fennel preparation of rabbit is found throughout the central Italian hills. The Marchigiani version is most associated with the Macerata and Ancona provinces, where wild fennel grows abundantly and rabbit is the primary small game animal.
Coniglio in porchetta is the Marchigiani preparation of rabbit cooked 'in the style of porchetta' — boned and stuffed with the classic porchetta filling of wild fennel fronds, garlic, rosemary, liver, and abundant black pepper, then rolled, tied, and either roasted in the oven or braised in white wine. The wild fennel of the Marche hills (finocchio selvatico) is the defining flavour — its anise fragrance perfumes the rabbit meat during the long cooking. The preparation is found throughout central Italy (Lazio, Umbria, and Marche all claim it) but the Marchigiani version uses rabbit and emphasises the wild fennel over other aromatics.
Olive Ascolane al Forno — Baked Stuffed Ascoli Olives
Ascoli Piceno, Marche — olive ascolane are the celebrated product of the Ascoli Piceno province, where the Ascolana Tenera olive DOP is cultivated. The stuffed olive preparation dates from the 19th century and is documented in the aristocratic kitchen of the Ascoli nobility, where the three-meat filling reflected the wealth of the household.
Olive ascolane stuffed and baked (rather than the more famous fried version) is the traditional domestic version of the celebrated Ascoli Piceno preparation — the large, green, sweet Ascolana Tenera olive is pitted, stuffed with the classic seasoned meat filling (veal, pork, chicken, spices), crumbed, and baked in olive oil rather than deep-fried. The baked version is less dramatic than the fried but arguably more nuanced — the olive skin softens gently, the filling cooks through, and the breadcrumb exterior becomes golden without the characteristic crunch of the fried version. In Ascoli Piceno, the fried version is the festival food; the baked version is the home kitchen version.