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Frittule Calabresi — Fried Pork Carnitas

Calabria

‹ Calabria

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I

Origin

Calabria — frittule are the pig-slaughter day preparation throughout the region. The maialatura (pig slaughter) in Calabrian tradition takes place in January-February, and frittule are prepared and eaten on the day of the slaughter — nothing preserves; everything is immediate.

II

Description

Frittule (also called rosolature or fritture di maiale) are the Calabrian version of the pig-slaughter feast preparation: pork belly, pork fat, and miscellaneous trimmings from the maialatura (pig slaughter) slow-rendered in lard in a large iron pot until the meat is completely tender and the fat has been extracted, then the temperature is raised and the meat pieces fry in their own rendered fat until golden and slightly crisp. The resulting small pieces of golden fried pork are served on rough paper immediately — the only seasoning is coarse salt and dried chilli. They are simultaneously the simplest and most satisfying thing made from a pig.

III

The Thread

—Pork slowly rendered in its own fat until tender, then temperature raised for crisping — Mexican carnitas and Calabrian frittule are identical in technique: slow confit in own fat followed by high-heat crisping; different seasoning (Mexican uses citrus and bay; Calabrian uses chilli and salt) Mexican
—Cubed pork belly confited in lard until tender and golden — the Touraine rillons and the Calabrian frittule are the same preparation; French rillons are often finished with a caramel glaze; Calabrian frittule are seasoned purely with salt and chilli French
IV

Flavour Context

Frittule hot from the pot are the paradigm of simplicity: golden, slightly crisp on the outside, yielding within, fat-rich, salt-and-chilli seasoned. The flavour is pure rendered pork, Maillard-crisped — there is nothing more honest in Italian food. They are eaten communally, standing around the pot, with rough bread and coarse red wine.

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