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Zuppa di Pane con Aglio e Pomodori Secchi Calabrese

Calabria

‹ Calabria

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I

Origin

The dish belongs to Calabria and to the wider southern Italian practice of cooking stale bread in a seasoned liquid, so that nothing of a loaf is wasted. It is a food of the household rather than the restaurant, built from bread, garlic, dried tomatoes and olive oil, which are the staples of the Calabrian pantry. The dried peppers known as cruschi, a product of the south, may be added to it.

II

Description

A hearty Calabrian bread soup — stale bread torn into pieces and cooked in a garlic, sun-dried tomato and olive oil broth until the bread absorbs everything and becomes dense, soft and richly flavoured. Calabrian dried peppers (cruschi) can be added for an extraordinary sweet-pepper dimension. This is the Calabrian version of the broader southern Italian tradition of using stale bread as a thickening agent.

III

The Thread

—Bread is cooked in a broth of garlic and olive oil until it softens and thickens. The Castilian soup takes paprika and egg, where the Calabrian version takes dried tomatoes and peperoncino. Spanish
—Bread is softened in hot garlic-scented water with olive oil, and egg is added to the bowl. The structure is close to the Calabrian soup, but the Portuguese version relies on fresh coriander and has no tomato. Portuguese
—Bread, garlic, tomato and olive oil meet in a single preparation, so the same four elements carry the dish. The Catalan bread is rubbed and served whole, whereas the Calabrian bread is torn and cooked until it collapses into the broth. Catalan
IV

Flavour Context

The soup is eaten hot, on its own or as the main dish of a plain meal, with a final thread of raw olive oil over the bowl. Its flavour is garlic, dried tomato and oil, with peperoncino giving a lasting heat and crumbled cruschi adding sweetness and a dry crunch against the soft bread. A dry, medium-bodied red or a young, unoaked white from the south suits it, because the oil and the bread's density call for acidity and little tannin to cut through them.

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