Cjalzòns di Carnia con Burro e Ricotta Affumicata

Carnia valley

‹ Friuli-Venezia Giulia

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The working recipe — the Market List, the Method, and where it lives or dies

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Origin

Friuli-Venezia Giulia — Carnia valley, Udine province

Description

Sweet-savoury stuffed pasta from the Carnia valley of Friuli — half-moon shaped pasta filled with a mixture that varies dramatically by family and village but typically includes spinach or Swiss chard, potato, dried figs, raisins, chocolate, cinnamon, and smoked ricotta. The filling is a medieval sweet-spice combination that survived in the Alpine valleys when the rest of Italy abandoned it. Dressed with browned butter and grated smoked ricotta (ricotta affumicata). The combination of sweet filling with salty butter and smoked cheese is a microcosm of Carnia's isolated culinary tradition.

III

The Thread

—Both are Italian stuffed pasta with sweet fillings balanced by savory dressings — Emilian uses mostarda (sweet mustard fruit) and amaretti; Carnia uses dried fruit and chocolate Emilian

—Alpine stuffed pasta with sweet-spice fillings from the Tyrolean tradition — the Carnia and Tyrol culinary overlap is evident in the shared medieval sweet-spice filling approach Tyrolean

—Stuffed pasta where the filling contains both sweet and savoury elements — the Central European tradition of sweet-savoury filled dumplings parallels the Carnia tradition Polish

Flavour Context

A paradox of sweet (fig, raisin, cinnamon, chocolate) against savoury (smoked ricotta, browned butter) — a taste of medieval Alpine cooking preserved in mountain isolation; unlike any other Italian pasta

Pillars V — VII

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