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Italian · V The Canonical Dishes · Friuli-Venezia Giulia

Cjarsòns Carnici di Magro con Burro e Formaggio

Friuli-Venezia Giulia, Carnia

‹ Friuli-Venezia Giulia

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I

Origin

Friuli-Venezia Giulia — Carnia, Udine province

II

Description

Carnia's mysterious filled pasta — half-moon dumplings whose filling contains an ingredient list that challenges all culinary logic: potatoes, ricotta, cinnamon, cloves, lemon zest, cocoa, raisins, and sometimes herbs. A sweet-spice-savoury combination that makes this one of the most distinctive pasta preparations in all of Italy. Dressed only with melted butter and grated Carnia smoked ricotta (ricotta affumicata), the simplicity of the dressing allows the complex filling to speak. Origin is mysterious but the spice combination suggests medieval connections to Venetian trade routes.

III

The Thread

—Both use medieval sweet-spice-savoury fillings in pasta — Mantova uses pumpkin-amaretti, Carnia uses potato-cocoa-cinnamon; both reflect the survival of pre-modern culinary aesthetics Mantovan
—Meat or potato filling with cinnamon, spice, and sweet elements inside a starchy shell — the medieval court sweet-savoury combination preserved in a pastoral mountain environment Moroccan
—Spiced potato enclosed in a dough — both cjarsòns and samosa use potato as the medium for a complex spiced filling, sealed in pastry Indian
IV

Flavour Context

Mysterious sweet-spice potato filling, cinnamon-clove-cocoa complexity, smoked ricotta sharpness, brown butter — medieval, fragrant, unlike anything else in Italian cuisine

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