Cook this
The working recipe — the Market List, the Method, and where it lives or dies
I
Origin
Marche
II
Description
Stockfish (air-dried cod) braised in the Ancona style with olive oil, onion, anchovy, tomato, olives, capers and rosemary — one of the great fish preparations of the central Adriatic coast. The stockfish must be beaten and soaked for 48 hours before cooking to fully rehydrate. It is then layered in a terracotta pot with the aromatics and braised very slowly until it holds its shape but yields to a fork.
III
The Thread
—Stockfish slow-braised in milk rather than tomato; both rely on very low heat and the non-stirring rule to preserve integrity Venetian
—Salted cod braised with tomato and olives — the Iberian version of the same preserved fish preparation Norwegian
—Desalted cod incorporated into aromatics — different technique (scrambled egg method) but same starting material and patience required for rehydration Portuguese
IV
Flavour Context
Intensely savoury, briny, with olive and caper acidity cutting the richness; the olive oil-braised stockfish has a silky, gelatinous texture — a dish of extraordinary depth
Pillars V — VII
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