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Chunggukjang — Quick-Fermented Soybean Paste (청국장)

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I

Origin

Chunggukjang belongs to the winter table of the Korean household, where cooked soybeans were fermented in the warmth of the ondol room and eaten within days rather than matured for months as doenjang is. The name is commonly read as 'paste of the Qing', and some food historians also point to an older, looser sense of cheong-guk as a foreign country; the name is therefore taken to suggest a link with the continental mainland, though the route is not settled. The Joseon household manuals treat fermented soybean preparations as a staple of the pantry, and chunggukjang has remained a domestic food, made in the home and carried by farming families through the cold months.

II

Description

Chunggukjang (청국장) is the quick-fermented soybean paste of Korean cooking: whole cooked soybeans (Glycine max) fermented for two to three days at 40–42°C (104–108°F) by naturally occurring Bacillus subtilis, which yields a pungent, ammonia-scented paste with long white threads stretching through the beans. Unlike doenjang, which matures for months in earthenware, chunggukjang is made within a few days. It is chiefly cooked as chunggukjang jjigae, a strongly flavoured stew that divides households between those who grew up with it and those who cannot bear the smell.

III

The Thread

—Natto is made by fermenting whole cooked soybeans with Bacillus subtilis var. natto, and it produces the same ammoniacal scent and long viscous threads as chunggukjang. The difference lies in use: natto is usually eaten cold over rice with mustard and soy sauce, while chunggukjang is most often dissolved in stock and simmered into a jjigae. Japanese
—Tempeh is also a quick ferment of soybeans, finished in about two days in a warm place, and it shares the principle of a short, warm fermentation that transforms the bean. It is made with a mould, Rhizopus, on dehulled beans pressed into a firm cake, whereas chunggukjang relies on a bacterium working on whole beans and yields a soft, sticky paste. Indonesian
—Douchi is a fermented whole soybean preparation of Chinese cooking, and it shares with chunggukjang the use of the intact bean as the vehicle of fermentation and a pungent, savoury result. Douchi is generally dried and salted and used in small amounts as a seasoning for stir-fries and steamed dishes, while chunggukjang is the body of its own stew. Chinese
IV

Flavour Context

Chunggukjang jjigae is the principal use: the paste is dissolved in anchovy stock and simmered briefly with tofu, kimchi and vegetables. The smell deepens during cooking and fills the room. It is eaten with plain rice, whose mild, soft character steadies the pungency and salt of the stew and gives the palate somewhere to rest between spoonfuls.

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