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Korean · III The Pantry

Joseon Royal Rice and Surasang Grain Grades (수라상 쌀 등급)

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I

Origin

The rice of the surasang (수라상) belongs to the Joseon court (1392–1897) in Seoul, where the king's table was supplied from tribute grain sent up from the surrounding Gyeonggi province. Icheon (이천), Yeoju (여주) and Paju (파주) are the counties associated with that tribute, and Icheon rice, a registered name today, still carries the reputation of the premium grain of the Korean table.

II

Description

The royal court of the Joseon dynasty (1392–1897) kept a graded order of rice quality for the king's meal table (수라상, surasang). The king's rice was short-grain japonica, milled white and whole, drawn from the tribute counties of Gyeonggi province, of which Icheon (이천) is the one still associated with the table. Rice is Oryza sativa, and the water ratio, the soaking and the cooking vessel were fitted to the grain, so that the rice was judged first and the dishes beside it second.

III

The Thread

—Koshihikari is a short-grain variety sold at a premium by named region, as Icheon rice is in Korea, so that place and variety together guarantee the grain. Japan's trade rests on named varieties and prefectures of growing, whereas the Korean royal standard rested on tribute counties supplying the court. Japanese
—Chinese imperial tribute rice was drawn from particular districts whose soil and water were held to give the best grain, the same logic that fixed the Joseon court's choice of counties. The Chinese tribute system served an imperial household across many provinces, while the Korean supply came from a small ring of counties around the capital. Chinese
—Sushi rice, like royal rice, depends on a short-grain variety whose water ratio, soaking and cooking are fitted to the grain, because the rice is the dish and not its accompaniment. Sushi rice is seasoned with vinegar, sugar and salt after cooking, while the surasang rice is served plain so that the grain is judged by itself. Japanese
IV

Flavour Context

Royal rice is served in a small lacquer bowl, slightly convex on top to indicate a generous measure. Eaten first, before any side dishes, to appreciate the grain on its own. The gloss of the cooked surface is the visual indicator of quality.

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