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Cochinillo segoviano: slow-roasted suckling pig

Segovia, Castilla y León

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I

Origin

Segovia, Castilla y León

II

Description

The roast suckling pig of Segovia — a 3-4 week old pig weighing 4-6kg, roasted in a wood-fired oven at low heat for 2-3 hours until the skin is crisp as porcelain and the meat falls from the bone. The definitive preparation in the mesón tradition of Castilla is the theatrical plate-smashing: at the end of service, the proprietor divides the cochinillo with the edge of a plate, demonstrating how tender it is, then throws the plate against the wall. The suckling pig is fed exclusively on its mother's milk — hence cochillo de leche. The meat is white, barely seasoned, and has an extraordinary delicacy. The skin is the entire point.

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