Cordero lechal: Castilian roast milk-fed lamb

Castilla y León and Aragon, Spain

The milk-fed lamb of Castilla and Aragon — a 3-5 week old animal weighing 6-8kg, roasted in a wood-fired stone oven at low-to-moderate heat until the meat is pale, extraordinarily tender, and the skin has blistered to a thin, golden crackling. The parallel to cochinillo segoviano is deliberate — both are young suckling animals, both are milk-fed, and both are roasted in wood-fired stone ovens (hornos de leña) in the tradition of the Castilian mesón. Lechazo churro (from the Churra sheep breed of Castilla y León) is the most valued variety, with DOP protection. The meat is white rather than pink (the milk-white of the suckling), the fat is cream-coloured and mild, and the flavour is delicate — not the strong 'lamby' character associated with older animals.

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