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Italian · V The Canonical Dishes · Lazio

Stracciatella alla Romana — Rome, Lazio

‹ Lazio

I

Origin

Rome, where this egg-drop soup is a classic first course—light, comforting, and dependent on the quality of the broth. The name "stracciatella" means "little rags," describing the torn, irregular strands of egg that form when beaten egg is poured into simmering broth. Hazan positions it as one of the simplest soups in the Italian repertoire and one of the most honest tests of a cook's broth-making ability, since there is nothing to mask a weak or artificial stock.

II

Description

A high-quality meat broth is brought to a gentle simmer. In a bowl, eggs are beaten with finely grated Parmigiano-Reggiano, a tablespoon of semolina or fine breadcrumbs, and a scrape of lemon zest. The egg mixture is poured in a thin stream into the simmering broth while stirring constantly with a fork. The egg sets into delicate, ragged strands—the "little rags"—that float in the clear broth. The soup is simmered for one to two minutes after the egg is added, then served immediately. The result is a bowl of golden broth with soft, cheesy egg strands.

III

The Thread

—Both pour beaten egg in a thin stream into hot broth so that it sets in ragged threads, and in both the clarity and flavour of the stock carry the bowl. The Chinese soup is usually thickened with starch and seasoned with white pepper, ginger and spring onion, whereas the Roman soup binds its egg with Parmigiano-Reggiano and semolina and is scented with lemon zest. Chinese
—Both enrich a clear chicken or meat broth with egg and lemon, and both depend on the stock being sound before anything is added. In avgolemono the egg is whisked with lemon juice and tempered into the broth to give a creamy, opaque soup, while stracciatella keeps the egg in separate strands and takes only the zest of the lemon. Greek
—Both are modest soups in which egg is set in hot liquid at the last moment and the quality of the liquid decides the result. The Castilian soup is built on garlic, paprika and bread and has the egg poached or stirred in, whereas the Roman soup is a clear meat broth with the egg beaten together with cheese and semolina. Spanish
IV

Flavour Context

The flavour is the broth—rich, clear, and savoury. The egg strands add body and a gentle richness. The Parmigiano provides salt and umami. The lemon zest adds a barely perceptible citrus brightness that lifts the soup. The semolina gives the egg strands a slight body that prevents them from being too delicate. The overall taste should be of excellent broth enhanced by egg and cheese, not of eggs in flavoured water.

Pillars V — VII
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