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Risotto con i bruscandoli — Veneto

‹ Veneto

I

Origin

Veneto — bruscandoli (the young shoots of wild hops, Humulus lupulus) are a prized spring foraged ingredient in the Veneto, appearing briefly in March and April. They have a distinctive, slightly bitter, asparagus-like flavour and are used in risotto, frittate, and soups. This risotto captures their fleeting spring character.

II

Description

Wild hop shoots are washed and trimmed — only the tender tips and first leaves. Blanched briefly in salted water. Roughly chopped. Rice is toasted in butter with onion. White wine is added. Light broth is added in ladlefuls. The blanched hop shoots are stirred in partway through cooking. Finished with butter and Parmigiano-Reggiano.

III

The Thread

—Both dishes rest on a young spring shoot whose faint bitterness is tempered by fat, butter in the risotto and butter with egg in the Flemish dish. The Venetian preparation folds the shoot into rice and cooks it together, whereas the Flemish asparagus is served whole and plain beside the sauce. Flemish · (Belgium)
—Both use a short spring vegetable of green, slightly bitter character, blanched first and added to rice so that its colour and flavour stay distinct. The French version relies on the cultivated, milder asparagus, while bruscandoli bring a wilder and more bitter note that the Parmigiano-Reggiano must balance. French
—Both celebrate a vegetable that is available only for a few weeks in spring and cooked simply so that its flavour is not lost. The German soup is a smooth, cream-enriched purée of cultivated asparagus, while the Venetian dish keeps the chopped shoots visible in the grain of the rice. German
IV

Flavour Context

Mildly bitter, green, and asparagus-like — wild hop shoots have a unique flavour that sits between asparagus and spinach, with a gentle, pleasant bitterness. Butter and Parmigiano add richness. The overall impression is delicately spring-like and slightly wild.

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